soft-robotics:molds:hitodama-arm []

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====== Hitodama's Arm ======

===== Checklist for mold =====

==== Step 1 ====

  * <todo #avnerus:2019-08-13>Metal rod is an exact half circle</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Height and diameter of rod are rounded to the half of millimeter (Something like .4 might be harder to lathe?) </todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Base of mold allows for the placement of jumper cables in step2, so that they are free to exit to the body</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Target silicone thickness is 1mm all around.</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>4mm injection hole, with some extra space for the 'umbilical cord'</todo>
  * <todo #avnerus:2018-07-02>4mm Bubble blow hole at the highest spot, when tilting the mold in injection.</todo>
  * <todo #avnerus:2018-07-02>Bubble blow hole has a leading funnel</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Silicone flow is smooth and round all the way to the bubble hole with some extra material forming the 'umbilical cord' before the blow hole</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Round side of mold contains coils that look just like the coils of the neck sausage</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Pieces can be aligned to the accuracy of 0.1mm</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Pieces can hold together while holding the mold in the air and tilting it (or let's build a ramp like Kari's? ^^)</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Outer piece has a draft for easy release of top from base</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>base remains attached to rod during step 2, but can be removed after and the rod can be pulled out</todo>

==== Step 2 ====
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Box can contain and protect the end of 6 jumper cables while casting, so that in end we're left with a hole for the sensor and 6 ends of jumper cables</todo>
  * <todo #avnerus:2018-07-30>Is the Box milled? Printed? How is attached the the outer piece?</todo>
  * sensor should be around the middle of the palm.
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Matti's point - the jumper cables should be a bit loose to make sure they don't create tension on the sensor when bending.</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Target silicone thickness is 1mm all around, but there is a 1mm of extra at the flat end to accommodate the fabric and cables</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>4mm injection hole, with some extra space for the 'umbilical cord'</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>4mm Bubble blow hole at the highest spot, when tilting the mold in injection.</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03>Silicone flow is smooth and round all the way to the bubble hole with some extra material forming the 'umbilical cord' before the blow hole</todo>
  * <todo #avnerus:2018-07-30>Pieces can hold together while holding the mold in the air and tilting it</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03> Outer piece has a draft for easy release of top from base</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-03> metal rod can be pulled out after casting </todo>

===== Changes made to model for milling =====

  * Smooth edges of bottom to top alignment notches.
  * Add 'mickey mouse ears' to the dent that houses the metal rod.
  * Remove injection hole.

===== Fixes checklist =====
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-27>Fix bumps in the wrist that caused holes in the skin</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-27><del>Wider tunnels and exhaust holes for bubbles on the arm (Didn't some of them feel too small?)</del> Exhaust Pools </todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-27>Wider tunnel for the injection port on the arm (We had a collision with the remains of the umbilical cord)</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-27>The fix that we had to do manually for the sensor box, there was a problem with height? Make sure everything works together on first try</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-27>Any fix necessary to make sure the wires can pass through the bottom when doing step 2, instead of from the side which caused all of the leakage.</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-27>Apply any remaining Fillets from the 'mill' model version, such as the mickey mouse ears and the smooth alignment notches.</todo>
  * <todo #autotel:2018-07-27>Make sure that after step 2, all of the wires will be completely immersed in silicone, isolated. including the tips that go into the sensor</todo>
  * <todo #avnerus:2018-08-21>Produce the mirrored arm.</todo>
  * <todo #avnerus:2018-07-30>Box tolerance offsets.</todo>

  * <todo>Step1 outer - One corner of one of the notches is missing a fillet</todo>
  * <todo>Step1 outer - The bottom of the mold should be "full" so the stock doesn't need to be milled from both sides</todo>
  * <todo #avnerus:2018-10-04>Step2 outer - Fillet the edges of the pool</todo>

===== Optional fixes =====
  * <todo>Find a better sealant than Plastecine?</todo>
  * <todo>Can the bottom part support 're-skinning' the arm? after gluing the inflation tube it's impossible to put the arm back into the bottom mold. Probably a hole for the tube is also not enough, because of the glue that is around the tube for fixing it (Unfortunately still using that rather ad-hoc method of fixing the tube). But maybe the bottom part could be a hole all the way through? in that way it _should_ be possible to squeeze it inside for re-skinning?</todo>

===== Lessons learned from 1st prototype =====

  * Avoid any possible dirt/was residue on the 1st stage mold. how to make sure the wax is super clean?
  * Work in a more sterile environment.
  * Don't use copper wires. Are the silver ones oxidizing?
  * Knit the wires into this net fabric instead of the hell that I did last time.
  * Should be more careful when removing the rod. Why actually didn't I do [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgKgAP8eEKU|this]]?
  * DON'T USE anything oil based to clean the silicone. Soap should work?
  * A better sealant than the Plasticine? 
  * Fillet the metal rod/s + **Also top and bottom**
  * **Milling patterns for skin like?** Wax?
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